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		<title>A Culinary and Artisanal Oasis in the Sonoran Desert</title>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Feb 2018 20:52:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Diane Penwill</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[Article appeared in the Winter 2018 Issue of Taste &#38; Travel International Magazine A Culinary and Artisanal Oasis in the Sonoran desert Phoenix, Arizona As twilight deepens into dusk, I follow the Phoenicians into the desert. Music in the distance beckons us and thousands of tiny, twinkling lights illuminate a ghostly panorama of saguaro and &#8230; <a href="https://savouryplanet.ca/?p=1150">Read more <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Article appeared in the Winter 2018 Issue of Taste &amp; Travel International Magazine</div>
<div><strong>A Culinary and Artisanal Oasis in the Sonoran desert</strong></div>
<div>Phoenix, Arizona</div>
<div>As twilight deepens into dusk, I follow the Phoenicians into the desert. Music in the distance beckons us and thousands of tiny, twinkling lights illuminate a ghostly panorama of saguaro and beehive cactus, silver, jumping and teddy bear cholla, the lights a welcoming guide through the desert trails. As we drift through the arid garden, taking in the fresh, cool evening air, I come upon a brass quartet behind a giant saguaro. A flamenco singer tries valiantly to keep the desert’s fading heat alive. A Mariachi band serenades the surrounding silence. I’m at Las Noches de Las Luminarias, an annual year-end festival at the 140-acre Desert Botanical Garden in Papago Park, an experience unlike any I’ve had in an urban setting.</div>
<div>The Valley of the Sun is a nickname created for Phoenix in the 1930’s to boost tourism. Pumpkinville was among the options considered as pumpkins have long been a cash crop here &#8211; the first challenge to my perception that nothing grows in the desert except cactus. Valley of the Sun is indeed a fitting name for a city in a valley (the Salt River Valley) surrounded by mountains that gets more than 325 days of sunshine each year, more than San Diego or Miami Beach. As far as what else grows here besides cactus and pumpkins &#8211; I was about to find out.</div>
<div>Mesa is the largest of the 22 communities which make up Greater Phoenix and the largest suburb in the U.S., with a greater population than Miami. Mesa is a Spanish word for table and the locals refer to it as our “table of plenty”. It is surrounded by desert which means easy access to the Sonoran wilderness.</div>
<div>“Would you like to try our breakfast wine?”, asks Brian Ruffentine, co-owner of Garage-East Winery, holding out a grapefruit. A blend of grapefruit juice, white wine made with grapes grown in Southern Arizona and sparkling water, it is delightfully fresh. Garage-East is one of the makers at BARNONE, a collective of skilled craftsmen which include the micro-winery, a micro-distillery, woodworkers  and restauranteurs, in the town of Gilbert. BARNONE also houses a medicinal garden (think modern-day apothecary) and a culinary machinist who designs kitchen tools. The winery is in a garage, but the name is also a play on the term “garagiste”, mechanic in French, a wine term derived from a renegade group of Bordeaux winemakers in the 1990s who broke with tradition to produce what they called “garage wines” which developed a cult following. Most wineries who now refer to themselves as “garagistes” try new techniques and produce small lots of limited production wines. Wine-tasting wasn’t something I was expecting to be doing in the desert, but I found out Arizona has three wine-growing regions, one near Sedona and two near Tuscon.</div>
<div>Chef Anthony De Muro, of Pointe Hilton Tapatio Cliffs Resort Restaurant, tells me “Everything we use is seasonal. Right now it’s winter greens, mushrooms, apples and pears. I can always find what I need nearby.” As far as what else grows in Mesa’s back yard — oranges (blood and navel), lemons (Lisbon and Ponderosa), tangerines, peaches, plums, blackberries, apples, corn, tomatoes, lettuce, broccoli, cauliflower, beets, cabbage, green onions, carrots, spinach, snap peas, radishes, artichokes, eggplant, olives, dates, garlic, green beans, kale, Swiss chard, collard greens, black peas, turnips, pumpkins, squash, potatoes and even high quality pima cotton.</div>
<div>“The 6th C in the Arizona state seal is for Canadians,” they tell me at Queen Creek Olive Mill and Spa. The family-run olive mill, in Queen Creek, a town near Mesa on a fertile flood plain at the base of the San Tan Mountains, is owned by a Canadian couple. Brenda, originally from Montreal and Perry, from London, Ontario, moved to Arizona in 1997 and planted 1,000 olive trees on 100 acres on the outskirts of Queen Creek. They now have over 7,000 trees, grow 16 varieties of olive and produce Arizona’s only extra virgin olive oil. I sample several types of olive oil, including a chocolate and a bacon-flavoured oil which would be perfect with breakfast eggs (and breakfast wine).</div>
<div>I’m almost tricked by the mural I see on the side of a building at the Raising Arizona Market, an open-air market in Mesa. The mural is a “trompe l’oeil” masterpiece, a French term for a trick of the eye, an art technique where realistic imagery is used to create an optical illusion, often three-dimensional. Mesa’s main street has many foodie delights such as Worth Takeaway, a sandwich shop which focuses on local ingredients. Arizona standouts on the menu include Provision Coffee, Mesa’s Proof Bread, produce sourced from Crooked Sky Farms and buttery goat’s milk caramels from The Simple Farm.</div>
<div>Agritopia, a master-planned community in Gilbert voted by the New York Times as the leading “agri-hood” in the U.S., just celebrated its ten-year anniversary. A reaction to urban sprawl, it offers citizens village life, with the modern amenities of a suburb, surrounded by the agricultural abundance of eleven acres of farmland. What this means for locals and visitors alike are foodie trails through olive groves, orchards, gardens, cattle and dairy farms as well as hiking in the mountains and cycling.<em> </em>Tourists can visit the walkable urban farm and try food from the same-day harvest at The Farm Stand or at Joe’s Farm Grill.</div>
<div>“Common food done uncommonly well”  is the motto at Joe’s Farm Grill. Lunch may be simple but it’s anything but ordinary &#8211; fast food direct from the farm. My delicious Fontina Burger, which I eat sitting under a 100-year-old tamarisk tree, is fresh-ground chuck smothered in fontina cheese and layered with roasted red peppers, grilled mushrooms, field greens and pecan pesto, all sourced from the farm. My salad is intoxicatingly fresh &#8211; the greens, vegetables and herbs were picked that day. The restaurant, in a ranch-style home, which looks like a retro diner right down to the picnic tables, is the original 1960’s family home of Joe Johnston, the developer of Agritopia.</div>
<div>The agricultural influences from the surrounding desert farms are very much a part of the culinary experience in downtown Phoenix. A great place to start a foodie walking tour is the DeSoto Central Market, a huge, airy food hall and gathering place in what was once a car dealership. High ceilings and exposed brick &amp; ductwork lend atmosphere. The restaurants source local and sustainable ingredients. Try the steamed buns at Adobo Dragon, a Latin American and Asian fusion restaurant, gourmet toast at Tea &amp; Toast, oysters at the Walrus &amp; the Pearl oyster bar or cocktails and wine at DCM Bar.</div>
<div>Just down the street is another market, the lively Phoenix Public Market. A casual hang-out, the cafe features hearty sandwiches on house-baked bread, robust salads, wood-roasted rotisserie meats and dishes made from the adjacent farmer’s market, pastries (seven pastry chefs are on site) as well as local wines and craft beer. The day I visited, local couples were expertly ballroom dancing on the side-street, the historic Westward Ho building a backdrop.</div>
<div>The Westward Ho is just one of many downtown historic buildings with colourful histories. Built as a hotel in 1928, it was named the Westward Ho after an English town of the same name. Before the hotel fell on hard times, it was one of the most modern hotels around, with “refrigeration”, (or air conditioning) and it attracted the likes of John F. Kennedy and Ronald Reagan. It was rumoured for years that the Westward Ho appeared in the opening sequence of the Alfred Hitchcock movie “Psycho” but in fact it was the Hotel San Carlos nearby. The Spanish Colonial-style Hotel San Carlos is a rare example of a historic inn still in use. In the 30’s and 40’s it was a retreat for celebrities from Hollywood who wanted to escape the paparazzi. Bronze stars on the sidewalk showcase the signatures of many Hollywood celebrities, including Marilyn Monroe and Clark Gable. It has not undergone a renovation, so it’s still possible to see many original Art-Deco details.</div>
<div>Phoenix’ artist community perhaps best expresses itself through its many murals, a form of street art which adds to the city’s gritty charm. In downtown Phoenix’ Roosevelt Row, the flourishing arts district, murals adorn the walls of almost every building, from funky restaurants and coffee shops to the sides of bare apartment buildings. Neglected warehouses have been transformed into galleries and modest bungalows have been turned into cycle shops and book stores.</div>
<div>Not surprising that one of the most famous architects of the 20th century, Frank Lloyd Wright, chose to make Phoenix his winter home. Taliesin West, established in 1937, is nestled in the desert foothills of the Phoenix mountains. Visiting Taliesin, it’s easy to sense how deeply connected to the desert he was.</div>
<div>From agricultural to architectural gems, it’s all here in the Arizona desert.</div>
<div><strong>Click It</strong></div>
<div>Desert Botanical Garden</div>
<div><a href="http://www.dbg.org" target="_blank" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en-GB&amp;q=http://www.dbg.org&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1518036075462000&amp;usg=AFQjCNFQSoTafl9rNLPAbiBtfTnGYHuCEw">www.dbg.org</a></div>
<div>DeSoto Central Market</div>
<div><a href="http://www.desotocentralmarket.com" target="_blank" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en-GB&amp;q=http://www.desotocentralmarket.com&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1518036075463000&amp;usg=AFQjCNH9u_IPMEy6uf1RCUNy1Ovq7cOx1w">www.desotocentralmarket.com</a></div>
<div>AZing Tours</div>
<div><a href="http://www.azingtours.com" target="_blank" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en-GB&amp;q=http://www.azingtours.com&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1518036075463000&amp;usg=AFQjCNHfrhlut6tzEviqANnZFDTLHmcmhQ">www.azingtours.com</a></div>
<div>Phoenix Public Market</div>
<div><a href="http://www.phxpublicmarket.com" target="_blank" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en-GB&amp;q=http://www.phxpublicmarket.com&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1518036075463000&amp;usg=AFQjCNHm--nWAa5qMpGbvKk0YPv_l_YVHA">www.phxpublicmarket.com</a></div>
<div>Le Foundre Hotel (Downtown Phoenix)/Match Restaurant</div>
<div><a href="https://www.foundrehotels.com" target="_blank" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en-GB&amp;q=https://www.foundrehotels.com&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1518036075463000&amp;usg=AFQjCNGw0PAOHNF1UYVshFHVUx9Ql674wQ">https://www.foundrehotels.com</a></div>
<div>Pointe Hilton Tapatio Cliffs Resort/Different Pointe of View Restaurant</div>
<div><a href="http://www.tapatiocliffshilton.com" target="_blank" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en-GB&amp;q=http://www.tapatiocliffshilton.com&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1518036075463000&amp;usg=AFQjCNGHD9q-Rp6uS1pLar84aIzqAa7FtA">www.tapatiocliffshilton.com</a></div>
<div>Taliesen West</div>
<div><a href="http://www.franklloydwright.org" target="_blank" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en-GB&amp;q=http://www.franklloydwright.org&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1518036075463000&amp;usg=AFQjCNEhJTsNnZWipBmobXgrdbMMFNBgSQ">www.franklloydwright.org</a></div>
<div>Mesa’s Fresh Foodie Trail</div>
<div><a href="http://www.visitmesa.com" target="_blank" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en-GB&amp;q=http://www.visitmesa.com&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1518036075463000&amp;usg=AFQjCNECBEEtud68CqpMRMfCmvi5KRbh9w">www.visitmesa.com</a></div>
<div>Worth Takeaway</div>
<div><a href="http://www.worthtakeaway.com" target="_blank" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en-GB&amp;q=http://www.worthtakeaway.com&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1518036075463000&amp;usg=AFQjCNFwX_z41ZUB7EnEd2E-XD48dcsDmw">www.worthtakeaway.com</a></div>
<div>Agritopia</div>
<div><a href="http://www.agritopia.com" target="_blank" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en-GB&amp;q=http://www.agritopia.com&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1518036075463000&amp;usg=AFQjCNFvLcy-kwUH1SPjSSMu-_Iw_YjB0g">www.agritopia.com</a></div>
<div>Queen Creek Olive Mill</div>
<div><a href="http://www.queencreekolivemill.com" target="_blank" data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?hl=en-GB&amp;q=http://www.queencreekolivemill.com&amp;source=gmail&amp;ust=1518036075463000&amp;usg=AFQjCNFhRLudt39jstAVKm4dk17MmzKbfw">www.queencreekolivemill.com</a></div>
<div>To read in PDF format:</div>
<div></div>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 10 May 2012 17:05:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Diane Penwill</dc:creator>
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		<title>Get lost in Eastern Ontario&#8217;s most eclectic store</title>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 01 Jul 2011 21:10:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Diane Penwill</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[Rideau Antiques is a great place to hunt for hidden treasures Article appeared in the Ottawa Citizen &#8216;Better not leave your bike in there, you&#8217;ll never find it again,&#8221; a man warns me as I dismount outside Rideau Antiques, in Eastern Ontario&#8217;s Rideau Lakes District. The store&#8217;s sign is almost completely obscured by rusted bric-a-brac, &#8230; <a href="https://savouryplanet.ca/?p=164">Read more <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3>Rideau Antiques is a great place to hunt for hidden treasures</h3>
<h4><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><em><strong>Article appeared in the Ottawa Citizen</strong></em></span></h4>
<p><a href="http://savouryplanet.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Couple.jpg"><img class="alignright size-large wp-image-525" title="Couple" src="http://savouryplanet.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Couple-1024x768.jpg" alt="" width="248" height="185" /></a>&#8216;Better not leave your bike in there, you&#8217;ll never find it again,&#8221; a man warns me as I dismount outside Rideau Antiques, in Eastern Ontario&#8217;s Rideau Lakes District.</p>
<p>The store&#8217;s sign is almost completely obscured by rusted bric-a-brac, as is the red brick face of the building and the entrance. It looks like a giant dumpster has unloaded its contents on the front lawn. Up close, the pile of junk is in fact an interesting mish-mash of century-old farm implements, delicate bedframes, 1950s metal patio chairs, children&#8217;s toys and side and end tables of every description.</p>
<p><img class="size-large wp-image-527 alignleft" title="Sign" src="http://savouryplanet.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Sign-1024x768.jpg" alt="" width="212" height="159" /></p>
<p>Inside, dinky toys hang from doorways while baseball and boxing gloves, catcher&#8217;s mitts, snowshoes, riding acoutrements and musical instruments all compete for a nook or cranny to call their own.</p>
<p>Billed as Ontario&#8217;s biggest single collection of antiques and second-hand items, it certainly must be the most eclectic.<a href="http://savouryplanet.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/DSCF0971.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-468 alignright" title="DSCF0971" src="http://savouryplanet.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/DSCF0971-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="240" height="180" /></a></p>
<p>I make my way to the field at the back of the store and see tricycles peeking out of Queen Anne&#8217;s lace that grows higher than a child&#8217;s head. Dozens of antique bicycles pose in the goldenrod, as if for a vintage photograph. Narrow, open-air alleyways radiate out, resembling a Moroccan medina and creating a maze that makes it entirely possible to lose something or somebody. A small child or a bicycle could easily be obscured.</p>
<p>Clifford and Alice Miller have owned the business since 1962.</p>
<p>Clifford started the business in a small shed just a few miles away, near where he grew up. An ex-teacher from Smiths Falls, he still remembers the first piece of furniture he refinished.</p>
<blockquote><p>&#8220;When I sold three in a row, I was hooked,&#8221; he says.</p></blockquote>
<p>What began as a summer job to keep him going between teaching assignments in Europe and Japan is now a family business he runs with his wife, son, brother, sister-in-law and a cousin.</p>
<p><a href="http://savouryplanet.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/DSCF0936rev.jpg"><img class="size-medium wp-image-469 alignright" title="DSCF0936rev" src="http://savouryplanet.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/DSCF0936rev-225x300.jpg" alt="" width="225" height="300" /></a>Clifford says it&#8217;s the repartee he enjoys with customers that has kept him going for nearly 50 years.</p>
<p>&#8220;Either the aisles here keep getting smaller, or I&#8217;m getting bigger,&#8221; remarks one regular.</p>
<p>I wonder how the Millers manage to keep track of their inventory. Short answer &#8212; they don&#8217;t.</p>
<p>&#8220;We have no idea how much merchandise we carry,&#8221; Clifford tells me.</p>
<p>But by constantly renewing their cache of local Canadiana, the Millers have kept customers coming back.</p>
<p>When I ask Clifford how he could possibly be knowledgeable in so many areas, he says: &#8220;I&#8217;m not an expert in anything.</p>
<p>&#8220;We don&#8217;t specialize. Our diversity is the reason we stay in business &#8212; something for everyone.&#8221;</p>
<p>Part of the fun of visiting Rideau Antiques is experiencing a sense of discovery. Because of the absence of any kind of order, your chances of uncovering a personal treasure overlooked by an earlier <a href="http://savouryplanet.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/DSCF0969.jpg"><img class="alignright" title="DSCF0969" src="http://savouryplanet.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/DSCF0969-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="240" height="180" /></a><br />
prospector seem good.</p>
<p><a href="http://savouryplanet.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/field.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-full wp-image-528" title="field" src="http://savouryplanet.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/field.jpg" alt="" width="221" height="166" /></a>Colourful old tractor seats with brand names such as Buckeye hang on the side of the converted barn, which has a chandelier collection inside and an attic with hundreds of chairs suspended from the ceiling, giving it an eerie haunted-house feeling.</p>
<p>But even more pragmatic types find good reasons to visit. If you have lost a hubcap, look for a replacement among rows of shiny hubcaps from every make of car. Home renovators browse among a huge selection of door hardware, including beautiful cut-glass deco knobs from the 1920s and more ornate Victorian styles. These things attract people from all over &#8212; apparently a woman who was renovating a house in Hamilton drove all the way to Lombardy for hinges.</p>
<p><a href="http://savouryplanet.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/DSCF0979.jpg"><img class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-470" title="DSCF0979" src="http://savouryplanet.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/DSCF0979-300x225.jpg" alt="" width="240" height="180" /></a>Out in the field in the late afternoon, ancient, rusted farm equipment glows in the warm, fading sunlight. Piles of doors, coils of fencing, shutters, stoves, tubs and windows with colourful wildflowers growing through and around them take on a glorious, fleeting beauty.</p>
<p>&#8220;Do you arrange your antiques among those flowers out there?&#8221; I ask.</p>
<p>&#8220;No, they&#8217;re just weeds to us,&#8221; says Clifford.</p>
<p>Weeds or wildflowers? Junk or treasure? You decide. <span class="youtube">
<iframe title="YouTube video player" class="youtube-player" type="text/html" width="425" height="344" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/lzl3J4e23aw?color1=d6d6d6&amp;color2=f0f0f0&amp;border=0&amp;fs=1&amp;hl=en&amp;loop=&amp;showinfo=0&amp;iv_load_policy=3&amp;showsearch=0&amp;rel=1" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
</span><p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lzl3J4e23aw">www.youtube.com/watch?v=lzl3J4e23aw</a></p></p>
<h3></h3>
<div class="notice"></p>
<h3>If you go</h3>
<p><strong>When:</strong> Rideau Antiques is open Mondays through Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.</p>
<p><strong>Where:</strong> Lombardy, Ont., which is about 85 kilometres southwest of Ottawa.</p>
<p><strong>How to get there:</strong> From Ottawa, take Highway 7 west to Perth; from Perth take Route 1 south for about 10 kilometres. Rideau Antiques is two kilometres west of the town of Lombardy.</p>
<p><strong>Where to eat:</strong></p>
<p>In Perth, try Fiddleheads Bar &amp; Grill, 55 Herriott St. In restored Code&#8217;s Mill, overlooking pretty Stewart Park, Fiddlehead&#8217;s is open for coffee, tea, lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Call 1-613-267-1304.<br />
About two kilometres east of Rideau Antiques, the Lombardy Diner is open seven days a week from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. Call 613-283-0265.</p>
<p><strong>Rideau Antiques:</strong> 613-283-6490 or 613-283-6985</p>
<h3>Media</h3>
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<h3>Map</h3>
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